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A WALK AROUND THE HISTORIC TOWN OF ST. IVES continued... Norway Square, on your right is where the St. Ives Society of Artists, a group of traditional artists exhibits. In the summer the St. Ives School of Painting have outside lessons.The Salthouse Gallery is also here. Just past the entranceway to the Penwith Gallery turn left into Porthmeor Road, passing a courtyard of artists studios on your right. There is an opening on the left that leads to Porthmeor Beach and a pathway leading from the beach on the right up to the Island, a grassy hill crowned by the Chapel of St. Nicholas.
Climb the hill to the Battery; built during the Napoleonic wars, it had three cannons in round emplacements and an underground magazine below the northwest side. The coastguards' lookout was built on the northern emplacement and below this on the lamp rock a light was lit every night to guide shipping safely into the bay. As you view the town from the Battery you will see Knill Steeple on the skyline, Mayor Johannes or John Knill, one of the towns' best-loved personalites and the customs officer in St. Ives from 1762 to 1782, built it to be his gravestone. Every 5 years on St. James's Day, 25th July, ten girls, all under ten years of age and all the daughters of fishermen, seamen or miners, are paid ten shillings to dance around and sing a hymn to fulfil a part of his will. Walk up to St. Nicholas Chapel. It was here that the 'Preventative Men' watched for smugglers. Records date back to 1598 telling of the smuggling of earthen pots, Muscatel wine and salt, which was necessary in the curing of pilchards. It would seem that every drinking house and inn had a hand in the smuggling business and it is even said that John Knill, collector of customs and Mayor that he be, erected the Knill Steeple as a landmark for the smugglers and was involved in many a plot to handle contraband. A smuggler was not thought of as a criminal and 'free trading' was considered 'fair trading' as it brought luxuries for all at reasonable prices. Back to the Battery and follow the path to the main gate onto the Island car park, turn left across the car park, past the public toilets and the beach entrance and onto Porth Gwidden car park. At the other side of this car park are steps leading past Bamaluz beach and up to Wheal Dream and St. Ives Museum. Here you will find a treasure trove of history of old St. Ives.
From the Pier follow Quay Street and continue along the harbour to the Lifeboat Station and the parish church from where you can retrace your steps back to the railway station if required. |
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